Matsuya Tokiwa

At Matsuya Tokiwa, the Miso Matsukaze—a baked sweet flavoured with miso—is the one to look out for. It resembles castella, but visitors describe a moist, chewy crumb with a springiness that becomes more apparent as you bite.

White miso gives the bake its defining flavour. Its fragrant, toasty notes meet the sweetness of sugar and a hint of salt for a balanced sweet-and-savoury taste. Black sesame is also used, keeping the recipe simple. It can be enjoyed with tea, or paired with coffee or black tea for a less traditional combination.

There may be enough in a box to enjoy a little at a time. One visitor said even the small size was too much to finish in one sitting; another found it easier to scoop out a portion with a spoon than to cut it with a knife. If you’re unsure how to serve it, start with an amount you can comfortably eat.

Some visitors have also managed to buy the trimmings to enjoy at home, an appealing alternative to the neatly shaped bake. They may not always be available, though, and one person who arrived without a reservation found only a few left. If you want to be sure of getting one, it’s worth enquiring in advance. The listed opening hours are daily from 9:30 to 15:00. If you’re planning a quick stop, check on reservations and plan to arrive early.